In my zeal to organize my kitchen, I wanted to find a better way to store my two cutting boards. I searched the Internet for solutions and the closest thing came from Rev-A-Shelf — they make an organizer that holds cutting boards, to fit on the door of a base cabinet. But at $55 a pop plus shipping, I thought it was a lot. Then I stumbled upon this website that gave instructions on how to build your own, and I thought why not?
After reading their directions, and finding some spare wood I had on-hand, I was off to the races. However, there are a few more things you will need to consider that I had learned. So, I am giving you my pearls of wisdom from what I learned–it took me about 3 hours to do this (because of waiting time for the varnish to dry) and about $12 worth of materials (I already had the wood).
Access the sizes of your cutting boards. Measure your cutting boards first so that you can find the appropriate cabinet door in your kitchen to build the organizer. I have two, the white one measuring 10″ w x 20″H x 1/2″D and the blue one measuring 9-3/4″W x 13-14″H x 1/2″D. Why? Because the heights will determine how high you will build the organizer and the depth of how many you plan to store, will determine how deep you want to build it. Of course, the width of the cutting boards will dictate which base cabinet you are going to use to store it in.
Luckily, I have Shaker style cabinets so the organizer can sit in the recess panel a little, between the two door stiles.
Wood–1×2 about 6′. I had scrap wood that I found in my basement that was perfect.
Finishing nails–buy them long enough so that you can hammer the pieces of wood together
L-Brackets–get 4 of them to anchor the finished Organizer to the cabinet door
Wood screws–long enough to go thru the L-brackets but not entirely thru the door stile of your cabinet door. You wouldn’t want the screw to stick out
Sand paper, fine 100 grit
(Optional) a can of spray Verathane wood varnish if you want a more glossy, finished look of the Organizer.
Tools. Phillips screw driver, power drill, measuring tape, hammer, T-square
How to assemble.
1. Cutting the wood. Since I had two cutting boards, one tall, the other one short, I decided to make the height of the organizer 10″ — so two side pieces were cut to 10″ high.
The width to sit inside of your cabinet between the door stiles–measure that and deduct at least 1/16″ — 1/8″ so ensure that it will recess in properly. You will need to cut 3 pieces of the width length–one for the frame bottom and two pieces for the fascias.
Cut the wood, and with fine sand paper, make edges and corner smoother.
2. Varnish the pieces. If you want a more finished look to match your cabinet, you can buy spray no-odor Verathane varnish and spray all your pieces, on all sides. Best to door it outdoors.
3. Assemble the wood. Once the pieces are dry, align your each side and bottom piece together, mark and pre-drill the holes. Nail the pieces together to make a frame.
Tip: When you do the top fascia, the cross bar that links the two side pieces together on the top side, nail one side first then use a Square to make sure it is at 90-degree angle. Then do the same to the other side when you nail it together so that your entire frame is square.
Nail the bottom fascia piece on top of the bottom rail. (In the picture at the right, the bottom piece is the frame, top is the fascia).
4. Attaching the organizer to the cabinet door. It is best to detach the cabinet door and lay flat on a surface before you start. Be sure not to loose the hinge screw–it took me minutes to find where that sucker had rolled to.
Insert the Organizer to the cabinet door with fascia pieces facing out. Use L-brackets to mount at the bottom of the Organizer and at the top side. Be sure that the wood screw you use is not longer than the thickness of the door stile so that it doesn’t punch through!
Re-attach the door to the cabinet.
5. Re-assemble your cabinet door. Screw back your door and voila–you now have a Cutting Board Organizer that is custom made for your kitchen and cheap! I love it–reduces my clutter and can’t wait to brag to my friends about it.
The Pacific Energy Center, located at 851 Howard Street is a wealth of resources for consumers, professionals and students. They offer assistance in
• Day lighting and shading analysis of physical building
models to optimize envelope design
• Advice on site orientation, glazing, shading,
day lighting, and
electric lighting systems
• Electric lighting system demonstrations and discussion
of the pros and cons of different approaches to electric
lighting in particular buildings and building types
• Identifying applicable incentive programs for energy-related measures, including the Savings By
• Performance measurement tools for existing building systems evaluation and efficiency
enhancements supported by protocols for tool use
• Offer seminars/instructional classes on lighting
• Resource and a Tool lending library is particularly helpful for design and architectural students is their lighting modulation (2nd floor) where you can bring in your model and mount it onto their light simulator to see how light hits the building at differe
nt times of the day. There is a display version of this in the main lobby level as well (see below).
In their main conference room, there is a wealth of different lighting systems, bulb types and simulation stages. We discussed basic lighting terminology:
Halogen. Outputs 18 lumens/watt and can run 3000 hours. Halogen bulbs are either type MR (Mirror Reflective) or type PAR (Parabolic Aluminized Reflector)
Fluorescent. Can be tube or bulb form is a low pressure mercury-vapor gas-discharged light source. It converts electrical energy into a useful light that is more efficient than incandescent lamps. It can exceed 100 lumens per watt and can output much more light than incandescent lamps. A ballast is needed to regulate the current through the lamp.
LED (Light Emitting Diodes). The technology behind LED lamps has grown rapidly. It has a very long lifespan and high electrical efficiency than incandescent lamps and even beeter than fluorescent lamps. LEDs can come to full brightness without the need for warm-up time.
Low-pressure Sodium Halide Lamps. This type of lamp uses a mixture of gases to formulate a discharge. When turned on, the lamp emits a dim red/pink light and within a few minutes it turns into the common bright yellow light. This type of light is used in industrial applications such as warehouses or lighting parking structures.
In the lighting center, we were able to experiment with all different types of lighting lamps as their set-up was extensive. See pictures below.
I recently had to soundproof between two units in an older Victorian building. The ceilings were high to begin with, so it allowed me the option of floating another ceiling underneath. I had written about using QuietRock in a previous post but elected, instead to use a combination of Resilient Sound Channels (RC Channel) with an acoustical drywall…why?Because there are two types of sound:
1. Vibrational noise — people walking, doors slamming
2. Air borne sound — people talking, TVs, music playing. By the way, the human ear can only hear mid/low ranges so that is why when a radio is blasting, you hear thump, thump, thump of the base but never the mid/high tones.
The most egregious of the two was the vibrational noise. Even though the tenants up above took off their shoes and had area rugs, when walking the sound waive vibrates on the floor board to the sub floor, down the wall joists then to the ceiling underneath. Taking down the ceiling was a cost prohibitive option for me; and in a contiguous room, there were coffered ceilings which I was not about to remove all that moulding.
So after searching the Internet, talking to various companies, I elected to use a blend of RC channel with an acoustical drywall to dampen the vibrational and airborne sound. The coffered ceiling had to make due with not using RC channel, just the acoustical drywall.